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The main character, 50-year-old TV aerobics star Elisabeth Sparkle (Demi Moore), wears saturated primary colors. We first see her in a pale blue jumpsuit, performing in the final episode of Sparkle Your Life. She wears a pale blue bow-tie blouse over an indigo background and a jacket when she is abruptly fired. In a large framed photo hanging in her apartment, she poses confidently in a dark blue jumpsuit. Elisabeth loves to mix and match colors, a touch of red in her handbag, pleated pants, a pair of leather gloves. Standing in the film's sterile white-tiled bathroom, she looks like a Rubik's Cube. But perhaps the most telling outfit in the entire film is Elisabeth's yolk-yellow jacket. This coat is her signature outerwear, and she wears it from beginning to end of the film—a visual foreshadowing of the process her body, like the splitting egg at the beginning, is about to undergo.
Elisabeth is the matrix, the primordial source from which her alter ego will be born: a dewy, 20-something Sue (Margaret Qualley), who emerges from Elisabeth’s severed spine, leaving her body a dormant shell sprawled on the bathroom floor. Once the egg, she is now its shell—discarded, shattered. She lies comatose, living on the support of an IV bag of Soylent-like food matrix. During Elisabeth’s first week as Sue, her identity shift is reflected in her transitions to pink and purple—hue mutations of Elisabeth’s primary colors. When Sue lands a gig as the star of the rebranded aerobics show Pump It Up, she dons a metallic pink bodysuit with cutouts. She swapped Elisabeth's blue stockings for orange ones and completed the look with a high ponytail, pink nails, and shimmering burgundy eyeshadow — a remix of the original.
It’s never been easier to convince yourself that the answer to insecurity lies in a one-off cosmetic enhancement—everyone else is doing it. And it’s all non-invasive, right? Just a few fillers here, a snip and tuck there. But the more time you spend living in your enhanced self, the harder it becomes to believe that your natural self has a right to exist. At a certain point, how voluntary are these procedures really? The Substance exposes how the pursuit of perfection inevitably leads to self-destruction. While visceral body horror is the core vehicle of this message, there’s another subtle storytelling technique at play: the use of color symbolism in costume design. Vibrant shades of red, yellow, and blue line the film’s early visual landscape, marking each stage of fragmentation and erasure that we inflict upon ourselves in the process.
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