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Though Calvin Klein’s sexy, minimalist style and unisex fragrance CK One are indelibly associated with the pre-Y2K era, the designer wasn’t thriving professionally at the start of the decade. “By the early ’90s, Calvin was nearly bankrupt,” Enninful reports, with Goodman noting that “he not only recovered, he thrived… Calvin Klein represented American fashion, head on.” See what can happen when you’re not afraid to embrace taboo?
“They took everything I had. All the machines, all the fabric,” Dapper Dan recalled, seeing his eponymous clothing store regularly raided by New York police after he achieved a level of celebrity status among the likes of Mike Tyson, Salt-N-Pepa, LL Cool J, and Jay-Z. “Unfortunately, they had to shut him down to set an example to the industry that you can’t just take our logo and be fine,” Edward Enninful recalled—and Dapper Dan responded with some vitriol. “Let me be perfectly clear. I didn’t knock you out. I knocked you out.”
“I loved Jenny, she was so cool. She said what she wanted, she wore what she wanted, she was just herself and she could pick up any girl. A whole agency!” Kate Moss recalls of iconic 90s gay Calvin Klein model Jenny Shimizu. Shimizu, who became the first Asian model to walk for Prada in 1993, also appears in the documentary, noting that when she was first hired, Klein didn’t ask her to grow her hair long or hide her love of cars and trucks (she had previously worked as a mechanic). “Calvin was like, ‘You walk the way you want, we know your hair is going to be short, this is how we’re going to present you,’” Shimizu recalls.
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