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As I’ve watched these homages play out on my feeds over the past few months, I’ve wondered if they signal a stagnation in the fashion world. This trend—which combines two of the main pillars of American culture, idol worship and recycled nostalgia—seems similar to the current state of the film industry, churning out regurgitated IP and remaking superhero sequels. Or maybe it’s just an attempt to get ahead in an oversaturated culture—that because another celebrity wore it before you, their influence can be absorbed into your fashion. It’s like a reference to another moment is an added accessory to an outfit, like a coveted handbag. But I’m not sure how influence works, and who knows if the original celebrity would approve of the whole endeavor, anyway?
Many of these looks, when placed in a new context, are undeniably chic, as if the ghost of the celebrity who once inhabited them were on the red carpet alongside the new celebrity, shouting, “I approve!” However, this isn’t always the case. In 2022, Kim Kardashian wore to the Met Gala the Bob Mackie dress that Marilyn Monroe originally wore to sing “Happy Birthday” to President John F. Kennedy—a moment that may or may not have actually opened the floodgates for the trend. The move was widely criticized, not least by Mackie himself, who was concerned about the legacy of a dress he designed for an icon and an icon alone, and (more importantly) the structural integrity of the archival garment. Despite protests from designers, fashion conservators, and the public, Kardashian continues—and seemingly with no end in sight.
And Sweeney isn’t the only one. This summer, Blake Lively showed up for her film It Ends With Us in a reimagining of the Versace dress Britney Spears wore in 2002. Alexa Chung attended the Serpentine Summer Party in London in a reimagining of the iconic blue dress Keira Knightley wore in Atonement. At the most recent VMAs, Tate McRae recreated the outfit Britney Spears wore to the 2001 ceremony, and at the same event, Sabrina Carpenter paid homage to Madonna in a Bob Mackie dress Madonna originally wore—ironically, in 1991—as a tribute to Marilyn Monroe in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. At this rate, I can’t wait to see Khai Malik pay homage to Sabrina Carpenter pay homage to Madonna pay homage to Marilyn Monroe.
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