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Chemical filters penetrate the skin, where they convert UV energy into heat, which eventually dissipates from the skin. “The majority of Korean sunscreens are chemical sunscreens, which are safe and effective,” says Dr. Kim. They match the lightweight texture and invisible, residue-free finish of Korean sunscreens. Meanwhile, physical or mineral filters stay on the skin’s surface, where they “have the ability to physically reflect and block UV rays,” says Dr. Kim. He likes these filters for hyperpigmentation and for patients who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or undergoing fertility treatments, because they are not absorbed by the skin.
There's less variation in texture between Korean sunscreens, in part because they all feel light and breathable on the skin. But they do have some differences, and you should consider your skin type. "Some textures are more hydrating, so they're better suited for people with dry skin," says Dr. Kim. For those with oily or acne-prone skin, consider lighter gel or serum options that absorb quickly. Not necessarily. While Korean sunscreens have some advantages over sunscreens formulated in the United States, such as the PA rating system—which indicates protection from UVA rays (which cause signs of aging), while SPF only measures protection from UVB rays (which cause sunburn and skin cancer)—they're not necessarily better.
Korean sunscreens admittedly have some cosmetic advantages in that they are lightweight and easy to spread, but they don't typically use mineral filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which many dermatologists prefer for sensitive skin. Not only that, sunscreens are also more strictly regulated in the United States. "In the United States, sunscreens are considered drugs by the FDA and are required to undergo extensive testing and formal drug approval," says Dr. Chang. "Therefore, some sunscreen ingredients approved in Korea may not be approved in the United States."
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