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In the interpretation fetishization even of punk, many may have missed that the visual imagery was largely a medium for communicating a deeper philosophical and political message, which was manifest in many other guises throughout her lifetime. “Punk was just a phenomenon,” her friend and collaborator for more than 50 years Gene Krell tells me in his thick Brooklyn accent. “The label changed, but the elements, the ingredients, the commitment remained.”
But even amidst the pain and uncertainty, strength shines through. “Inside we are all stronger than before,” says Yana Olenich, founder of the eponymous womenswear label Olenich. “Unity and resistance is in our blood.” A year on, five designers reveal what their personal and professional realities look like now. Masqueraders wearing carnival costumes with wings and crowns jumped up behind sound trucks large mobile stages outfitted with speakers, DJ equipment, and steel pans that crawled through Port of Spain on Tuesday morning. At Victoria Square, members of the Lost Tribe carnival band fastened on backpacks made of drapery, gigantic clusters of butterflies, and capes. Sweet soca and calypso boomed throughout the capital city. “If you hear any noise in the background, they’re music trucks on the Avenue. Welcome to carnival,” says Valmiki Maharaj, the creative director and bandleader of the Lost Tribe. Maharaj says he’s everything from “head cook” to “bottle washer” he’s a designer, editor, strategist, and visionary.
The Lost Tribe is a young carnival troupe that put on its first road march seven years ago. Since the beginning, the costumes departed from the feather and headdress bikini mas (costume) most bacchanalists have seen or worn. On carnival Tuesday, the Lost Tribe pushed the boundaries of tradition yet again. The overarching theme was “202We,” represented by blue, the color of “renewal, of washing, of rebirth,” according to Maharaj. A section called Wish, designed by Naas Mohammed, led the band. The revelers wore painter’s-tape blue iridescent “road gowns” paired with beaded, baby blue bikini bottoms and tropical-print head wraps. The Wish frontline wore four-foot-tall green bamboo-like poles that jutted into the air and were draped with coordinating printed fabric; they looked like sarongs blowing in the wind. The men wore a black netted jacket with blue sequin fringe with mesh joggers.
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