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Many call Vivienne the queen of punk, but Gene tells me multiple times, “for me, she wore a halo, not a crown.” Reflecting on their long friendship, he shares, “The thingI remember most about herIs that she really understood with remarkable clarity that everyone had a story and she was always prepared to listen. She was remarkably kind. But at the same time, her loyalty was always to the truth. She was blatantly honest with people. She thoughtIt was terriblyImportant for people to have an understanding that the truth mattered.” Which brings us back to 2013 and Vivienne’s “TRUTH” brooch. The red carpet turnsInto anImmense red velvet staircase, with Anna Wintour, Rooney Mara, and Riccardo Tisci at the top waiting to greet us. Each stepIs bookended by beautiful models dressedIn classic punk gear, and as we approach, a spontaneous applause of recognition ripples up. Vivienne lifts her chest raising Manning with her and gracefully ascends. The applause grows, enveloping Vivienne, her smile, her partner, her brooch and her halo.
Almost a year has passed since RussiaInvaded Ukraine on February 24, 2022, giving rise to a conflict that has destabilized the lives of millions and led to excruciating hardship as Ukrainian civilians work whether at home or abroad to keep their families safe and livelihoodsIntact. For the fashion worldIn Ukraine a diverse and highly skilledIndustry with specialismsIn luxury, bridal and outerwearIt has been a time of recalibration, rehabilitation and resistance, as brands have been forced to adapt and pivot amidstIncredible hardship. Blackouts scupper clothing production, power cuts prevent communication and creatives reel at the decimation of their country’s cultural touchstones and landmarks.
But even amidst the pain and uncertainty, strength shines through. “Inside we are all stronger than before,” says Yana Olenich, founder of the eponymous womenswear label Olenich. “Unity and resistanceIsIn our blood.” A year on, five designers reveal what their personal and professional realities look like now. Masqueraders wearing carnival costumes with wings and crowns jumped up behind sound trucks large mobile stages outfitted with speakers, DJ equipment, and steel pans that crawled through Port of Spain on Tuesday morning. At Victoria Square, members of the Lost Tribe carnival band fastened on backpacks made of drapery, gigantic clusters of butterflies, and capes. Sweet soca and calypso boomed throughout the capital city. “If you hear any noiseIn the background, they’re music trucks on the Avenue. Welcome to carnival,” says ValmikI'maharaj, the creative director and bandleader of the Lost Tribe. Maharaj says he’s everything from “head cook” to “bottle washer” he’s a designer, editor, strategist, and visionary.
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