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Looking this way, SZA radiates a cool, unbothered conscience I thought could only be unlocked by an ascetic life of material renunciation or bottomless generational wealth. It’s not just that she appears calm or free or even triumphant that this exhilarating but toxic relationship is finally behind her, but a rare combination of all three. It’s a look of hard-won serenity that doesn’t hide the hell she passed through to get to it. There’s a breezy messiness to the shipwreck chic aesthetic. The way Rosalía’s penchant for wet-looking hair can sometimes make her look hurried but unruffled, like she ran straight from the shower or was caught in a storm on the way. The difference between “I’m sorry I’m late,” and “Thank you for your patience.” I see it, too, in Caroline Polachek, crawling through the cover of Desire, I Want to Turn Into You in a stained slip dress, or sweating through her eyeliner and satin hair bow on the beaches and subway platforms of “Welcome To My Island.”
Now, just because understated, undressed looks are trending for summer doesn’t mean those shimmering, eye-catching pieces are completely cast to the side—so don’t put that sparkling summer cocktail dress in storage just yet! Page tells me that the spring 2023 runways glistened with sequins, paillettes, and crystal. “We saw a new guard of designers coming through and leading the way in the eveningwear space, from Nensi Dojaka, who exemplifies outstanding brand evolution, to 16ARLINGTON and LaQuan Smith,” she says.
Hot summer nights? Take them on and dress in less. “This trend is a new wave of eveningwear dressing—a complete shift away from the high-octane glamour that has dominated the space for the past few seasons to a more understated approach that embraces nudity in a subtle and chic way,” she explains. “Saint Laurent owned this mood, continuing the theme from its pre-spring 2023 collection and showing 10 revealing dresses on the runway.” Of course, not all your looks have to be for nighttime; you can always opt for semi-sheer pieces during the day.
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