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Sherman adds that all lab-grown diamonds are laser engraved with a serial number, making it “possible to know with certainty where each stone came from.” “Lab grown diamonds are graded exactly the same as natural diamonds using the 4Cs: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight,” explains Sherman. “Cut doesn’t refer to the diamond shape, but determines how well the diamond captures and refracts the light to produce that brilliant diamond sparkle. When looking for the perfect diamond, you actually want to look for the one with the least amount of color. The normal color scale runs from D to J, from colorless to near colorless, so the closer to D the more valuable the diamond. Clarity refers to the flaws or inclusions on and within a diamond. Flaws can impact the stone’s ability to let the light pass through, so the fewer flaws, the more brilliant the sparkle. Carat refers to the diamond weight, not the size. Remember, however, that a high carat doesn’t always equate to a better, sparklier diamond if said diamond is not well-cut.”
Both Rosen and Strachan agree blanket statements shouldn’t be made about all lab grown diamonds, but note that they can be a more ethical option, too. “Lab grown diamonds have found a large market with consumers concerned about illegally-traded ‘conflict diamonds’ used to finance wars or ‘blood diamonds’ mined with forced labor,” says Rosen, who points to Russia’s continued invasion of Ukraine as a cause of these growing concerns. “Russian-owned diamond mining company Alrosa makes billions of dollars in revenue each year from its diamond mines, and that revenue is supporting a Russian economy buckling under global sanctions. While many large retailers like Tiffany’s have announced that they won’t buy diamonds cut from Alrosa diamond rough, the lack of transparency in the diamond supply chain and loopholes in sanctions specifically related to diamonds and gemstones means it is difficult to guarantee that a diamond wasn’t mined in Russia. Now, consumers know the only way they can avoid buying a conflict diamond is to purchase a lab grown diamond.”
“These chemical reactions allow a diamond to grow in a matter of weeks rather than thousands of years,” continues Lisa Rosen, CEO of the International Gem Society, a leading resource for gem professionals. “CVD is a more popular process for producing gem quality diamonds, while HPHT is more common for producing diamonds for industrial uses.” “It is nearly impossible for the naked eye to tell the difference between a faceted lab grown diamond and natural diamond,” says Rosen. “The only way to tell the difference is with very powerful and expensive lab equipment, which most independent jewelers won’t have in their store.”
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