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Gemma Jones, brand education expert at Institut Esthederm, agrees that the tanning industry’s accountability is credible, “especially when scientific research shows that irresponsible and unprotected skin exposure during tanning can lead to everything from premature photoaging to skin cancer.” However, Jones is quick to admit that, “There is, and arguably always will be, a strong desire among consumers to tan and achieve a radiant tan that looks healthier.” As someone who has always had a diverse clientele in her tanning booths, Isle of Paradise founder Jules Von Hep feels that brands creating products that are not inclusive of people of color are “absurd.” “Unfortunately, this idea was created by self-tanning brands in their marketing campaigns in the 1990s and 2000s, which were only targeted at people with lighter skin tones. Today, with TikTok and Gen Z really embracing #BlackGirlTanning, it’s clear that the ‘self-tanning is only for one skin tone’ mindset is slowly becoming outdated.”
Another factor in the rise of self-tanning is the drying formulas of old. The new generation of all-over self-tanners are so focused on hydration that they give their skincare cousins a run for their money. James Read, one of the pillars of the tanning industry, recently launched his latest brand, Self Glow. To cater to every skin tone, he steered clear of synthetics and used cocoa extract as a natural color guide, “something I discovered after years of testing on people of all ages, skin tones, skin types. It naturally adjusts to every skin tone and gives a warm glow while eliminating any gray tones.” His hydrating and brightening ingredient list also includes hyaluronic acid, squalane, kakadu plum, vitamin E, and aloe vera, all of which were previously unknown ingredients in their predecessors. But formulas aren’t the only thing that needs to be rethought, says Read. If it were him, we’d stop using the word “tan.” “The trend in tanning is moving toward brightening and enhancing the skin, rather than physically changing or altering the skin. That’s the main reason my brand is called Self Glow, because the desire and the end product are all about the natural warmth and glow of the skin, rather than the altered skin.”
In 2019, I wrote a piece for British Vogue about my first experience as a black woman tanning without the sun. It was with Amanda Harrington, the fabulous tanning expert whose body-contouring techniques have earned her an impressive A-list clientele (she’s been dubbed “the Michelangelo of tanning”). The results were extraordinary: golden, even, and confidence-boosting. I told myself at the time that this was the start of a lifelong love affair with spray tans. I was wrong—I haven’t done it since. My options were frustratingly limited: Self-tanning products were either full of alcohol or simply unsuitable for darker skin tones. I know some black people who secretly use tanning beds; they’re aware of the risks and willing to take them, but I’m not. Rewind five years and the changes across the industry—from shifting attitudes toward tanning to a plethora of sunless tanning products that are beautifully formulated for every skin tone—have been staggering. Brands like Clarins, James Read, Isle of Paradise, Tan-Luxe, and Vita Liberata are leading the charge, and the message is loud and clear: A lot of consumers—yes, including black people—want to get a tan without having to spend time in the sun or a tanning bed.
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